Kolahoi Green Resort, Pahalgam

Timber cottages on stone-terraced gardens beside the Lidder River at Langanbal, with deodar forest climbing the hill behind. The rooms are dressed in Kashmiri craft, from carved wooden ceilings to crewel-embroidered fabrics, and in summer the garden terrace under its big umbrellas is the place to sit out. A quiet base for days out to Aru and Betaab Valley.