Bangus Valley

Bangus Valley is one of the last untouched alpine valleys in Kashmir, in Kupwara district in the north of the valley. Locals call it the Mini Switzerland of Kashmir for its vast meadows ringed by pine-covered mountains.

Bangus is not one meadow but three. Bada Bangus is the largest, a great sweep of rolling grassland; Chota Bangus is smaller and lies closer to the forest; Reshwari Bangus is the least explored. The meadows sit at about 10,000 ft below the Shamsbury, Dajlu and Naganaga mountains, fed by ice-cold streams and waterfalls, with forests of pine, deodar and fir all around.

May and June turn the meadows bright green and full of wildflowers while snow still lies on the peaks. July to September brings the best weather, around 15 to 25°C, and is the time for camping and trekking. From October to April heavy snow cuts the valley off.

There is little to do here but be outdoors, and that is the point: camping in the open meadows, treks into the surrounding mountains and across to Gurez, pony rides, nature walks, photography and bird watching. There are no shops and no crowds.

Unlike Gulmarg or Sonamarg, Bangus is still undeveloped. J&K Tourism is slowly opening it up for eco-tourism, but for now it is visited mostly by locals and trekkers. There are no hotels or guesthouses in the valley: bring tents or hire them in Kupwara, ask about forest huts and army guest houses in Chowkibal (with permission), or stay in village homestays near Chowkibal and Rajwar. Carry your own food and water.

Bangus Valley is in Kupwara district, about 130 km from Srinagar. Three roads lead there.

Route 1, via Handwara and Rajwar, is the easiest drive: about 128 km and 3.5 to 4 hours. Take NH-1 from Srinagar through Sopore to Handwara (about 72 km), then continue through Zachaldara and Wadder Payeen to Bangus (about 30 km). The road is fairly level with few steep slopes, and Zachaldara has food and places to stay. By public transport, take a shared cab from the General Bus Stand in Srinagar to Handwara (about ₹100), then a shared Sumo from the Kohinoor Sumo Stand in Handwara to Bangus (about ₹300 per person, return).

Route 2, via Kupwara and Chowkibal, is the most scenic: about 130 km and 4 to 5 hours. Drive from Srinagar through Sopore to Kupwara (about 2.5 hours), then on through Chowkibal and Drangyari to Bangus (40 to 42 km), passing T-Pee Post on the way.

Route 3, via Handwara, Reshwari and Mawar, is about 29 km from Handwara on a road finished in June 2022. It winds through forest and past military posts and can turn muddy in the rain. From Reshwari TRC it is 15.4 km to Bangus.

Before you go: the road now runs all the way into the valley, and local 4x4s and shared Sumos leave from Reshwari and Nowgam. There are no hotels in the valley itself, only one hut at Reshwari, 15 km short of it, so camp or stay in Kupwara, Handwara or Lolab. The valley is close to the Line of Control, so check with the local administration or the tourism office before travelling. Road work is still going on.