Tulail Valley

Tulail Valley is one of the most untouched corners of Kashmir. It lies in Bandipora district beyond Gurez, along the Kishanganga river close to the Line of Control.

The valley is home to the Dard-Shina community and is known for its traditional wooden houses, green meadows and snow-covered peaks. There are no crowds and nothing commercial here, just villages, the river and silence.

Tulail comes alive from June to September, when the roads are open. Villages such as Badwan and Gano look out over the mountains and the river, and the road runs on to Ankot, the last village of the valley.

It is a place for offbeat travellers, photographers and anyone who wants to see rural Kashmir as it really is.

From Srinagar, drive 60 km to Bandipora (about 2 hours), then 86 km over the Razdan Pass (3,292 m) to Dawar, the main town of Gurez (4 to 5 hours). Tulail is a further 35 to 40 km, about 1.5 hours, through villages such as Badwan, Markoot and Chakwali; the road ends at Ankot. In all it is about 185 km and 8 to 9 hours one way.

Start early. The road over the Razdan Pass runs on army convoy timings, 8 am to 4 pm, and you need to be across before 4 pm. It is open from May to November and closes in winter when snow blocks the pass.

Shared Sumos and taxis run from Bandipora to Dawar; from Dawar to Tulail you will need to hire a local cab. Srinagar airport is the nearest, about 185 km away.

Indian visitors need ID proof; foreign nationals need a special permit from the DC office in Srinagar or Bandipora. Tulail sits at about 2,400 to 2,700 m (7,870 to 8,860 ft): pleasant in summer and cold at night.

There are no ATMs, and the BSNL network works only in patches, so carry cash, medicines and a power bank. Places to stay are a few homestays in Badwan and Markoot, best booked ahead.